Julie Mikos	Courtesy of Martha Stewart Weddings

Shopping for Engagement or Wedding Rings?  Consider Buying Vintage

“When you buy antique jewelry, you get something unique and beautiful—jewelry with a

personality,” Bernard Cohen declared. An old friend from Atlanta, Bernard has been in the antique jewelry business for 15 years and is now of Gray & Davis, Ltd. in New York City. (See below)

Bernard continued: “With fine old jewelry, the design integrity and the quality of the manufacturer—you can feel the cutter's art in each stone—creates greater value for your investment. If not hand-made, at the least, it is hand-finished, not stamped out like most new jewelry that takes pride in its standardized sameness. ”

Vintage Rings: Courtesy of Isadora's

Richard Yaffin, owner of Estate Jewelry Ltd. in Asheville, North Carolina, (see below) agrees that “typical new jewelry is rather contrived; designed for mass merchandising, it is nothing special.” Vintage inspired wedding jewelry updated with a modern look is now fashionable. But why not just shop for vintage? In fact, an ad for Richard’s store reads: “Why pay for new? Our inventory of fine estate diamonds and estate jewelry are 100% guaranteed to cost you much less money!”

An engagement ring—one of the wedding industry’s “invented traditions” as declared by author Vicki Howard in Brides, Inc.: American Weddings and the Business of Tradition—doesn’t have to be a diamond. (“A diamond is forever” is part of a very clever, and profitable, advertising campaign began in 1948 by De Beers, the mega diamond cartel.) However, if diamonds are your game, I found this All About Diamonds chart on the M. Khordipour Enterprises website particularly helpful.

Vintage Rings: Courtesy of Isadora's

But what about the whole “blood diamond” issue that was in the news a few years ago? Certainly if the stone is old enough, you may escape that concern. For instance, as Richard Yaffin explains, “Old ‘European’ or ‘mine’ cut diamonds pre-date the conflict diamond era.” Bernard Cohen adds that in earlier times, “many diamonds came from independently owned alluvial mines, therefore ‘cleaner’ stones. ” Also since the Kimberley Process was put into effect in 2003—designed to certify the origin of rough diamonds were from sources that were free of conflict—perhaps it’s less of a problem in regard to new diamonds. Bernard adds, however, “Many of our brides mention that it is something that they do think about…. ”

(For more background on the subject see my write-up, Love Without Diamonds, in the Winter 2006/07 issue of Weddings of Grace with links to informative books—such as the 2006 book by Tom Zoellner The Heartless Stone: A Journey Through the World of Diamonds, Deceit and Desire.)

Let’s get back to that fine artisan’s, one-of-a-kind aspect to buying vintage (perhaps called antique, estate or heirloom jewelry). If you don’t think you can “feel” the craftsmanship of the vintage stone cutter on your own (as Bernard Cohen described above), I find that most people who sell antique jewelry are passionately knowledgeable about their wares. So if you want to be educated regarding antique jewelry quality, design, and gemstone history, I offer a short list of shops below. (Let me know of others that you recommend.)

Estate Jewelry Ltd. – Asheville, North Carolina. 828.258.1571

Richard Yaffin knows jewelry! His father began in the jewelry business in the1920s and Richard followed in 1963 in the St. Petersburg, Florida area, trained by experts in the field. Continuing his passion and know-how in the glorious Blue Ridge Mountains, Richard personally greets you in his elegant estate jewelry store in Asheville, North Carolina. Here in his cozy atelier in Biltmore Village, you not only get to see a beautifully hand-picked collection of fine pre-owned jewelry—including diamond, sapphire and other gemstone rings appropriate for engaging one’s beloved!—but you also get to have Richard’s charm and expertise guide you.

Isadora's – Seattle and Online

For over 30 years, Isadora's has specialized in providing their clients with an exquisite collection of antique diamond engagement rings and estate jewelry. The business, owned by mother and daughter Elizabeth and Laura Dalesandro, recently moved into a new location at the luxurious Inn at the Market in downtown Seattle. Laura reports: “Our new web site, which has photos of all the engagement rings, is constantly updated and has been an excellent tool for our clients. We certainly agree that these gorgeous rings offer extra value and character!”

Gray & Davis, Ltd. - New York City. 212.719.4698.

Located in the heart of the Diamond Exchange in New York City, Gray & Davis, Ltd. is an easy to find store front at 32 West 47th Street selling estate and heirloom jewelry. The store specializes in wedding jewelry including a collection of antique mounts, assorted stones to fit, and the thoughtful expertise to advise you! Owned by Gray Boone, an elegant woman originally from Texas and Alabama and former owner of Horizon magazine, the 17 year-old store has a world-wide clientele. Bernard Cohen joined his friend Gray in 2007, bringing a depth of experience and informed service.